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Sunday, September 12, 2010

Traveling and Hostel Stays in Armenia

I have finally gotten the chance to experience the challenges of public transit in Armenia. On Thursday, I rode on my first marshutni (mini-van) from our village to the Capital. Fortunately I had one of the local people help me buy a ticket and I was able to get the front seat by the window. The roads between here and the capital are very windy with lots of switchbacks. Not so good for someone like me who gets carsick even when I drive. But our trip there was smooth and fast with only a hint of nausea on the way. We actually get incredibly close to Azerbaijan on the road, and can see the Armenian and Azerbaijan army bunkers with soldiers at the ready. But that's another story.

So having successfully gotten to Yerevan, I managed to find a metro station (yes, I asked where it was in Armenian) and met some other volunteers near Republic Square. We walked to the hostel were the volunteers stay when they come to town. Here's a plug for the Envoy Hostel if you're ever in Yerevan. For 5500 dram a night (about US $15), you get clean sheets, a bed, blanket, pillow, hot shower, bathrooms with toilets that flush, and breakfast. Quite a deal.

I was never in a dorm in college, and now I know what I missed (there are both good and bad to this, but only the good is reported here). In our room, we filled the 8 bunks with both men and women ranging in age from 20s to 60s. It actually was a lot of fun laying around in PJs and talking until late in the evening. And I have to say that the showers at this place are unbelievably good--especially when you come from a village with little or no water. It was awesome.

So Saturday morning I had to figure out how to get home. I could have taken the easy way out and called someone to make arrangements for me, but I figured now was as good a time as ever to see what I could do on my own. I found a bus stop and got on a bus to go to the main bus station to buy my ticket. Having located the bus station, the next challenge was to find a place to buy tickets. First, I had to remember the Armenian word for ticket! Somehow, it all came together and I bought a ticket for the 2:30 bus back to Noyemberyan.

Then I had to get back to the hostel--easier said than done. The bus numbers going TO the city and different from those coming FROM the city. So, another chance to practice my Armenian. And of course every bus going where I wanted to go was completely overcrowded. 20+ people in a space meant for 10. I finally managed to get on a bus going in what I hoped was the right direction. Much to my surprise, I wound up reasonably close to where I intended to go and only had about a 10 minute walk back to the hostel.

One of the great things about meeting up with other volunteers, especially those who have been here for a while, is that they know where things are--like good breakfasts, coffee, shopping, etc. Several of us went out for french toast, bacon and REAL maple syrup. It was awesome!

Ok, so now for my trip home. I am now an old hand at getting to and from the bus station. So, I got back on another bus and arrived in time to get on the marshutni heading home. It was pretty full, but I managed to get a seat right behind the driver with a space next to me for my bags. That stoke of luck was not to last. A woman flagged us down and took up not only her seat next to me, but half of mine as well. Not to mention that it was incredibly hot and she must have come from a place with no water like me. For the next four hours I was crammed into a very small space with little or no ventilation. People here are afraid of having a breeze on them as they are convinced they will get sick (they may actually be right in some of this). Add to this all the curvy roads, and I was not a happy camper! Plus, we actually had to stop so two of the passengers could get out and drink beer!!

The trip home took a very, very long 4 hours (compared to 3 going down). We drove through rain, dense fog, and wind. I have to say that I was glad to arrive in one piece. With no air coming in, I was really, really carsick by the time we got here. Also, the drivers seem to pay little attention to the double lines in the middle of the road, and on highways with 4 lanes they drive wherever they want--passing on the left, right, into the breakdown lane, whatever. I loved passing trucks on curves in the fog when you couldn't see in front of you 10 feet. And if there had been a cow in the road (not an unusual proposition by any means), I don't even want to think what would have happened.

So we are going to Yerevan again on Wednesday. Now, the big question . . . do we take a taxi or a marshutni? Tune in next week for the next exciting installment of Travel in Armenia. . .

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