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Thursday, December 1, 2011

Marshutni vignette

Marshutnis (marshrutnis, marshrutkas) are how we get around in Armenia: minibuses of various ages and in various conditions, often packed beyond the imaginable. Sometimes they remind me of those old films of 20 or so college kids getting out of one VW Beetle: I once counted 16 people in the two first rows - that's in six seats and what little floor space there is in a minibus. What can I say? We waste a lot of space and resources in the US.

Anyway, the other day I found myself in the back of a marshutni going to Yerevan; Tamara, another Peace Corps volunteer, was going to Ijevan, about a third of the way, and managed to get on the same marshutni at the last minute. It was far too crowded for her to make it back to sit with me or vice versa, but it wasn't insanely packed: at least I didn't see anyone sitting in anyone else's lap.

The picture below is of one of our regular marshutnis to Yerevan at the half-way rest stop, on a day almost exactly like the one when this story took place.



So we get to Ijevan and Tamara hands a bill to the driver to pay for her ride, and the driver doesn't have change. Suddenly all 25 or so people on the marshutni were very concerned, and several heads turned to look at me, wondering if I'd pay for Tamara. I saw her predicament, of course, so I started to dig into my pocket for change to pass up to her. But while I was digging I didn't see what happened up front - someone else was getting off, gave her fare to Tamara and gave Tamara's bill to the driver. Everybody was happy, except I was left to wonder if the driver had just decided that he wanted to take off for Yerevan rather than wait for the $1.30 fare.

Something about that situation was very typical of Armenia; it captured a piece of the country's essence: maybe it was just that the driver didn't have change, or that there was seeming chaos until everything somehow worked out anyway, or that almost the whole marshutni seemed to be involved, in a good way. Or perhaps it was just that I was so cramped I couldn't reach my pocket and therefore didn't come through in time to do my part and pay for my fellow foreigner's ride. Regardless, it was good.

Over the past year and a half of living here, I've made my peace with most of the petty annoyances and inconveniences that come with life on about $300 a month - which is not bad for here. Today I'm just grateful that I'm not subject to the more serious consequences that sometimes result from such limited incomes.

1 comment:

  1. Good morning how are you?

    My name is Emilio, I am a Spanish boy and I live in a town near to Madrid. I am a very interested person in knowing things so different as the culture, the way of life of the inhabitants of our planet, the fauna, the flora, and the landscapes of all the countries of the world etc. in summary, I am a person that enjoys traveling, learning and respecting people's diversity from all over the world.

    I would love to travel and meet in person all the aspects above mentioned, but unfortunately as this is very expensive and my purchasing power is quite small, so I devised a way to travel with the imagination in every corner of our planet. A few years ago I started a collection of letters addressed to me in which my goal was to get at least 1 letter from each country in the world. This modest goal is feasible to reach in the most part of countries, but unfortunately it’s impossible to achieve in other various territories for several reasons, either because they are countries at war, either because they are countries with extreme poverty or because for whatever reason the postal system is not functioning properly.

    For all this I would ask you one small favour:
    Would you be so kind as to send me a letter by traditional mail from Armenia? I understand perfectly that you think that your blog is not the appropriate place to ask this, and even, is very probably that you ignore my letter, but I would call your attention to the difficulty involved in getting a letter from that country, and also I don’t know anyone neither where to write in Armenia in order to increase my collection. a letter for me is like a little souvenir, like if I have had visited that territory with my imagination and at same time, the arrival of the letters from a country is a sign of peace and normality and a original way to promote a country in the world. My postal address is the following one:

    Emilio Fernandez Esteban
    Calle Valencia, 39
    28903 Getafe (Madrid)
    Spain

    If you wish, you can visit my blog www.cartasenmibuzon.blogspot.com, where you can see the pictures of all the letters that I have received from whole World.

    Finally I would like to thank the attention given to this letter, and whether you can help me or not, I send my best wishes for peace, health and happiness for you, your family and all your dear beings.

    Yours Sincerely

    ReplyDelete